I don’t only say this because we’re living in the time of Covid-19 and Tiger King, but also because if you had told me this time last year while I was sipping on a cocktail on a beach in Puerto Rico where I would be (In sweatpants in front of my two work screens which are sitting on my kitchen counter in South Africa, day #18 of self-isolation and day 6 of South Africa’s official lock down) I would have told you that you are absolutely insane and I had better things to do… like…hunt down more cocktails and fresh seafood while my boyfriend pretended to read on a nearby beach cabana.
But before we get serious, I hope you’re staying safe and self-isolating. I hope you have the privilege of being able to effectively work from home and that you are using the time productively (resting is considered productive if you need it). I hope you’re also able to pay all the people under your employ who can’t work because of this lockdown. I’ve been using the time to obviously work (this is not a holiday), catch up with friends, work-out, meditate, re-adjust my plans for the year and read and write (What a mouthful; pretty sure that’s what the tiger said when it ate Carole’s husband)!!!
Please forgive me for the numerous Tiger King references. I really want to stop, but every single time I do I think of something ridiculous that happened in the series that should be illegal or someone sends me a related meme and I break out in stitches again. I tip my hat off to Netflix, I am actually speechless. Suffice to say, I’m glad I’ve avoided Oklahoma for all these years.
So, I’ve been thinking a lot about how certain places hold such significance after the fact and Puerto Rico seems like one of those places to me now. My senior spring break in College, still innocent and doe eyed, I ventured to Puerto Rico with some of my best friends. It was, till this day, the last trip we all did together (this is a not so subtle hint guys). I was still trying to figure out a post university profession, country and living arrangements. I also still had only 20 pages of my thesis done! I decided to screw it all and go frolic on an Island with my besties, because really what’s employment when you have friends? I’m kidding, I’m kidding. We spent most of the holiday on Vieques and till this day I can’t remember the last time I had so much fresh fruit and honestly not a care in the world; from waking up and going for a swim at 6 in the morning to kayaking in clear kayaks at 8pm in bioluminescent bays. It was then that Puerto Rico firmly stamped its place in my heart.
A year ago, post another degree in hand, less doe eyed but with some of the same anxieties, I ventured back to Puerto Rico. How 8 odd years changes how you feel about a place. Again, P.R seemed to fill me with such joy and gratitude. Partly because of my previous experience, but mainly because of where and who I was with in that moment.
We’ll pretend that restaurants aren’t expensive A.F and remind me of still being in London… The people, the history, the food; it really is a treat. I don’t normally say things like this, but it was just honestly such a vibe. If you ever make it to Puerto Rico (This is not the easiest by the way as there are very few direct flights from the US and none from London or Johannesburg) and I suggest you do as it is an economy highly dependent on tourism and will obviously be negatively affected by Covid-19, herein with some of my most memorable experiences. Ideal list if you’re there for 3-5 days!
El Yunque National Forest
Bio Bay: Night-time Kayak in a Bioluminescent Bay
La Fortaleza (walking to the Fort)
Snorkelling on Flamenco Bay
Castillo San Cristobal
Vieques – love the beaches, but so much to do on the Island
Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico
Restaurants / Bars
The above was seriously worth it and I would do it again and again if given half the chance (and budget)!
Bon voyage and stay safe during this period you cool cats!
So, I want to start by putting out a disclaimer, I do not come from the type of Zulu family that considers a Safari a holiday. I’m not sure what I could trace this back to, but both my parent’s individually and as co-parents would have never (once we could afford it) taken us on a Safari holiday… now that that’s out of the way I’d also like to explain to you why until I was in my mid-twenties a Safari holiday has never been appealing to me. I may also explain why I was so wrong (Yes, I admit to being wrong now and then…so you should grab the popcorn!).
Insert all the verbiage you can imagine about growing up in apartheid South Africa….not in exile..in actual South Africa… Holidays were a luxury etc. I could not think of anything less deserving of my time then going to watch animals roam about. Going on holiday was a privilege…One not to be wasted on ..animals…*insert all of the eye rolls*. To this effect I remember getting in to United World College and sitting in our computer lab at Pietermaritzburg Girls High (Good old GHS)… and one of my soon to be classmates asking me about the lions I surely must keep as pets… Yes, I went along with it…I actually had her convinced that I had two lions as pets and one had actually bitten one of my uncle’s hand off so we had to put him down. Please forgive me Aparna.hahaha. To think you went to an Ivy league school after me being able to convince you of such. Why were people so obsessed with these damn animals!?!?! I think I’d seen a lion when we went to the Durban Zoo in primary school once…but I was more interested in the birds and glanced at the “wild animals” on display…
Fast forward, a decade
later living in East Africa when all my colleagues kept pushing me to go on Safari…I
finally gave in! I had friends coming to visit and what kind of host would I be
if I never actually went to these supposed amazing places!
So I blame my ignorance on youth and generally being a poor student who actually couldn’t afford to go to a Kruger or even a B class safari experience. I’ll spare you my terror at taking a 8 person helicopter from Nairobi to the Mara. Really, there are worse stories to be fair…and there are better stories that don’t end with me wanting to hurl my guts!
The Maasai Mara is a treat. It is everything I didn’t realise I needed from a vacation / a Safari. One of my uni besties was down for a visit from New York and ofcourse Kenya had to pull out all of the stops to ensure she had a good time. Fast forward 6 months later and one of my other besties from South Africa came to visit, again, The Mara did not disappoint. Both times we spent about 3 days at the Mara and both at my absolute favourite place – Angama Mara.
Owned by two South Africans, Angama Mara is a slice of heaven. Each meal, villa and activity is tailored to exactly your taste. From 24-hour service to a Michelin star chef preparing all your meals. From majestic views that give the lion king a run for its money to breath-taking wildlife seen from your own private land rover…from sunrise balloon rides to your own private picnics made by said Michelin star chef. I have honestly never been in such awe; and then they rolled out the massages at your own villa overlooking the expansive Mara. I saw my first migration at the Mara..I also saw a giraffe giving birth(this was less majestic and just awkward – did you know they give birth standing up?). Every time I’ve gone it has been sparsely lodged; to be fair at that price range I doubt Angama Mara is a place we can all just YOLO to without saving up. The lap of luxury chose me guys!!!
There are obviously cheaper options than the Maasai Mara and way CHEAPER options than Angama Mara. I can’t recommend a safari break enough. There is such a serenity and peace that comes with being one with nature as our ancestors once were. What I particularly loved about being a Kenyan resident was the fact that the Kenyan Government really encouraged their residents to go to National Parks etc by having both local resident and international prices; this way there’s a discount for all locals and you actually get to enjoy some of the wonders of your own country at a fraction of the price. South African tourism can learn a thing or two from them!
I literally cannot say enough
good things about taking some time off and going to connect with nature!
Hit me up for more specific tips! Here’s the first one free – save up!!! Safari’s do not come cheap! Also bring a friend! So thankful that I got some downtime with my besties Zee and Anna over those few days to just unplug and relax!
What have been some of your favourite off-the beaten track Bush adventures? And we won’t get started on the Beach vs. Bush debate – we could be here the whole day! And I personally believe in balance so a bit of both never hurt anyone!
adventure is just a step away. With my limited leave days and my life ethos of
Yolo-íng I ventured to Istanbul for a few days. How irresponsible of me right?
Nope – one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. Sometimes you need to remind
yourself that you’re alive and that a budget or limited time will not be the
end of you.
Luckily for me Turkey is one of the few places where as a South African you can do a Visa on Arrival… For Free! Turkish Airlines also has some of the most reasonably priced flight tickets out there. Flying out of Kenya I paid a cool USD400 return (about R7,000) for a return flight. The visa process was smooth, and I came out on the other side 30 mins later. It literally could not have been smoother!
I, as I’m sure you have picked up, am a sucker for itineraries and structure. So I often draw one up for short or long trips!
The below is a rough itinerary that we used and I 100% stick by it. It was a good balance of seeing both the Asia and Europe side of the city (Istanbul is the only city that spreads over two continents), getting in some cultural time (Read: Blue Mosque) and eating to my heart’s content all the street food, wine and olives I could stuff down. See below slightly amended version:
Sites to see: Bosphorus Cruise (2pm)Brewery on the Bosphorus Choice of one scenic restaurant for late lunch: MiklaMuzedechangaX Restaurant and Bar
sites to see
Drip CoffeeistAkaliMOC Istanbul
Topkapı PalaceAya SofyaBlue Mosque
Dinner @ Nusret (Etiler or Nisantasi)
for some Bloody Mary’s & G&T and then searching for kebabs
probably do the traditional kebab place with Cagan today?
Flight is at 20:30 and 19:30! Be at the airport by 6.30pm
Luckily for me I had a couple of friends from high school in town who take their eating as seriously as I do (shout out to Cagan for actually leaving his demanding Bloomberg job before midnight to show us around) so we managed to squeeze in some good local food. How do I judge authentic food spots anywhere I go? Well if they don’t speak a word of English and the line is around the corner… that is a pretty good sign that they’re doing something right.
never eaten so much:
Wine that’s not South African
….In such a
short amount of time.
A couple of other highs were taking a cruise between the two parts of the city (Istanbul will always have my heart), seeing the world-famous Blue Mosque (guys, trust me on this – go go go), and trying out local food. Turkish food is the perfect balance of spice without burning off half your mouth, the spices are complex, yet simple and balanced.
I love any
city that allows you to walk to your hearts content whilst checking off bucket
list items. I loveeeeeeeeed the copious
amounts of cafes littering the streets and the fact that every single place we
walked into had amazing and cheap food.
A word to the wise…and here comes the draw backs. If you’re black..disregard the stares. Apparently, our people don’t make it a habit to visit Istanbul…especially with their whiter than white boyfriend. Also make it a point to thoroughly cover up in the old parts of the city. I walked about once in a shirt that showed my very bony chest and I have never received so many stares IN MY LIFE. I couldn’t stop laughing because I didn’t know whether it was my general chest or my melanin that was the cause of the attention. Just don’t risk it!
All in all
if you’re ever looking for a great, affordable and easy holiday… Istanbul is a definite
And now for my final..and favourite East African beaches! Last and certainly not least…wait for it…wait for it… Part 3!
It is customary to save the best for last, so here we go!
It pains me to write about my last but also favourite beach spots in East Africa…You know when you have a juicy secret and you kind of want to share it but at the same time you know you shouldn’t? This is how I feel. Next thing, everyone is flocking to my favourite beach and it becomes less and less special every single time I go because I see all of you there ALL THE TIME?!?! Let me try and not be selfish. Where do I even start!
My favourite beach towns in East Africa and Kenya are…In no particular order, but if you follow me on IG (beeinrsa) you will know the exact order:
Nestled an hour away by flight from Nairobi you will honestly experience some of the best beaches in the world. Crystal clear water, white sands, ridiculously good Swahili food, the friendliest of people and never-ending sunshine. I’m not making this up, but all 4 of the above beaches have made me feel like I’ve died and actually ended up in Heaven. The first time I landed in Lamu and I had to take a water “uber” to get to the actual Island I knew that is where I wanted to get married! No boyfriend, no ring, but I was like…One day is one day Lamu (Update two my favourite people got married in Lamu last week and it was MAGICAL)!
The area is breath-taking! It is the perfect balance of old coast culture and architecture and modern day ..nothing. You feel like you’ve been thrown into this beautiful time capsule where everything has stood still and you are just a silent observer of people going about their days and lives. From early morning Dhow rides and feasting on Captain I’ll Be Back’s mum’s fish samosas to spending hours at the dinner table gorging on Swahili delicacies and all the Mandazis you can eat. Lamu is nothing short of magical. It’s the kind of place where you can consume 10 glasses of G&T in a day and not be hungover the next day (and yes this is a proven fact; I attempt to disprove it every single time I go). The Wi-Fi signal is crap in most houses you go to which adds to the allure of the beach life; unplugging and simply being. There’s arts and crafts, there’s yoga, there’s mangroves and there’s secluded beach bars! It even has a floating bar (A very recent and treasured addition). I really don’t want to say more about the Island for fear of ruining it or spurring you on to see it faster…Useful Hint: like most other beaches in Kenya, the house option is the best option. Hotels are a thing of the past and are limited. They are also extremely expensive. And yes give me a shout, I am happy to give you all of the suggestions on houses to stay at and activities to do and guides to show you the lay of the land. The one thing that is for sure is that Lamu emotionally moves you. I don’t know anyone who’s been to Lamu and not felt some sort of spiritual alignment with themselves.
Watamu and Diana are also very different…Whilst Lamu has an old-world charm mixed in with some strong Arabic influences, these two have the strangest Italian influence. Rumour is this started when Italy had a major crackdown on the mafia and Italian families started emigrating to you guessed it, Kenya! Lo and behold Trump’s favourite, Chain migration started! You spend your days lounging by the beach or a pool and having fresh gelato from one of the million Italian gelato shops! It is truly blissful. The food is amazing, the people are the friendliest and everyone is extremely content. Again, houses before hotels..book yourself a boat ride on the creek..go snorkeling in Diana…Go tubing in Kilifi…Go skydiving in Diana (I have done this about 4 times now) and try not have a heart attack at how perfect everything is.
I really cannot be too prescriptive about these beach destinations…I am however open to answering any and all questions on budgeting for trips, my favourite houses / hotels, my favourite foods, what holiday and beachwear to bring, cultural norms (please do cover up in Lamu as it is a very Muslim town when you leave Shela) and even when is the best time to take this trip! Questions? Comments? Drop me a line on here or on my IG! Slide into my DMs and make your dream holiday a reality!
Myths vs. Reality: A disaster filled holiday which turned
out more than ok.
Could you write an African beach love story and not include
Zanzibar? Probably not…. Could you write a love story specifically about
beaches in East Africa and not include Zanzibar? Nope! This lovely little
Island is what many a honeymoon dreams are made of. Several friends had told me
about their incredible trips to the Island, time and time again and on one long
weekend in South Africa, I decided to make the trek. I must admit this was
probably one of the most disorganised and spontaneous trips I’ve ever
taken. And unlike my common practice of
staying in reasonably priced hotels or Airbnb, we opted to book a house that
was a stone’s throw away from Double Tree by Hilton to have communal living and
also have the option of making our own meals.
I gave a few friends some notice and we all descended upon Zanzibar on
similar flights from London, Johannesburg and Nairobi. It was by far one of the
more random trips I’d pulled together as most of the group really didn’t know
each other and I was the common denominator. This meant I had to be organised
(*sigh*) so everyone was comfortable. In true Bee style, I obviously delegated
as much as I could because well let’s face it…My Swahili is non-existent and
there was a fair bit that had to be done in Swahili.
Have you ever been in a situation where almost everything
that can go wrong goes wrong? Welcome to my Zanzibar holiday!!!At times like
this you need to ensure you really like the people you are travelling with
because there were so many beginner traveller faux pas that happened. I will
withhold some of my idiotic friend’s actions for fear of them finding me and
shaming me. I also dropped the ball a couple of times and couldn’t stop
laughing at myself because if the tables were turned, I would have lost it.
Disaster number 1 – I left the office with my colleagues’ passport and only realised this when I got to OR Tambo. The guy at the counter … “unless you’ve recently had a sex and race change, I assume you’re joking”. Insert me hyperventilating and having no idea where my actual passport was. I called my colleague in question to ask him where my passport was only to remember that I and two other colleagues pulled a prank on him a week prior and hid his passport…in my desk…which I then picked up and slipped into my bag without realising. Mind you this was when KQ was basically trying to recoup its losses through us and was charging USD150 – USD200 (ZAR2,500 – ZAR3000) every time you changed your flight. So you know I was not trying to take a later flight and pay R3000 to change it. For some odd reason I had decided to leave my house keys with a friend and asked them to dash to my house to fetch my passport from where it always is…and my yellow fever card…because the one I had was also clearly my colleagues. I then rushed on the Gautrain to meet them at Marlboro (for those who aren’t familiar with the Gautrain, it’s essentially the stop between the airport and my home) because I didn’t have enough time to go home. Thank you KQ for consistently being late and the nice man at the counter who kept my suitcase while I ran for my life (thank you lack terrorism and the trust that man had). Because of this disaster, it completely slipped my mind that I was supposed to pick up some malaria pills for the trip at the airport pharmacy. I promise I am smarter than my actions These are the hiccups of learning to independently travel. Lessons learnt? Please check your passport before you leave the house and ensure you have every necessary shot or immunization.
We had a relatively safe transition through Nairobi. We went out a ton, but there is safety in numbers and friends who do not imbibe are the real MVPs. We spent the next day taking in some cultural sites and visiting the giraffe sanctuary. We arrived safely in Zanzibar and got picked up promptly. All of us except for a friend who was working overtime and flew from JHB à Dar es Salaam and then was to take the ferry across from the mainland to the Island. Brace yourself, his story is also a disaster…if you’ve never been to a place, *try* to travel with the group. There is safety in numbers, but also multiple brains are better than one in troubleshooting traveling snags.
We eventually arrived in Nungwi (I’ve been to various parts of the Island and this part was by far my favourite). We arrive and our house is nothing like the photos… There is no internet like the brochure suggested and our in house cook…well…I’m pretty sure 11 year old me was a better cook (He didn’t however try to feed me baked beans from the can like another ‘chef’ at a disastrous New year’s location we stayed at in Diani, Kenya). The guy wasn’t the best of cooks, but he always had a lovely cup of coffee for us when we woke up, fresh fruit and eggs your way. We won’t go into the fact that he refused to make bacon because he didn’t eat bacon. We’d paid half of our boarding fee over the internet and were supposed to settle the rest when we were physically there. The only ATM within a 1km walking distance was out of service… we clearly didn’t get this memo as we assumed we could just swipe for the outstanding amount… Most of the restaurants around our house only took cash which none of us had the good sense to withdraw. Yes, in retrospect I am also laughing at us. What a joke, my darling! I was really pushing this traveling on a budget mission; albeit far too much. I must hand it to a couple of the restaurants who let us eat on credit for two days. They were so trusting and even laughed at my terrible attempt at Swahili… once the only ATM close by was operational, they were hit with a windfall of money from the 6 of us. Lessons learnt? Always have cash. The airport FX rate is also crap, but it’s definitely a good idea to have a few thousand shillings on you. It’s an even better idea to do a currency exchange in your own country. Always read the fine print in these house booking websites! Lastly, learn a few Swahili words, just to ensure you don’t seem like a complete idiot or foreigner when haggling at the market…and boy, did we haggle! Here’s some of my go-to words which say, “hey, I’m clearly foreign but I’ve learnt a couple of things so I’m making an effort.”
Swahili Word List:
Jambo / Salama – Hello.
Tafadhali – Please
Habari – how are you?
Asante – Thank you.
Asante sana – thank you very much.
Nauli ni kiasi gani – how much is the fare?
Lala salama – Goodnight.
Ndiyo – Yes.
Hapana – No.
Sawa – Ok.
Tafadhali, naomba msaada – can you please help
Unatoka wapi – where are you from?
Kidogo tu – Just a little bit.
Nataka – I’d like.
Unasemaje kwa Kiswahili – how do you say “x” in
Rafiki – friend.
Bas stendi – bus stop. (Genius right? as a Zulu person I approve of these)
Soko – Market.
Kesho – Tomorrow.
Nyama – Meat.
Nyama kuku – Chicken
Maji – Water.
Bia – Beer.
Chakula – Food.
More disastrous things that happened this lovely week… That
hardworking friend missing the last
ferry in Dar to come to the Island because SAA was late and then having to find
a last minute hotel for the night…The hotel in question that the cab driver
sent him to was of questionable characteristics and morals…Yes, they tried to
introduce him to lady friends (I couldn’t stop laughing when I heard). Questionable Wi-Fi signals everywhere we
went…Maybe a lesson to let go and just enjoy the Island. Lessons learnt? Don’t
travel alone when you don’t know a country…but also make sure to get a local
sim card if its reasonably priced.
Despite all these unplanned adventures, we had a lovely time… We partook in ample activities and I wouldn’t know where to start in saying which ones were actually my favourite. We took a tour around the city and the architecture and buildings were glorious, especially all the coral stones on the forts. The amazing local food which deserves its own blog post and the extremely hospitable people who we encountered daily … going to the old slave market and trying not to cry my eyes out… It was as if you could still see the slaves cramped into tiny spaces that were barely big enough for a few animals… Going to prison Island and seeing all the tortoises there…. Diving with dolphins and literally marathon swimming so we could just get a glimpse. How could I forget the full moon party where our car broke down at 5am on our way home and the boys having to push it up the hill all the while complaining that we are all equal and deserve to push the car together (It was a VERY steep hill and they had all done a HEAP of drinking). Did I mention it was also 5am in the morning? Haha. I had more fish than I could have imagined eating and more beer than I should have. All the while gawking at the beach boys and their over age European lovers. If you know, you know! I am obsessed with making whole fish whenever I’m in a coastal town and my obsession was fulfilled almost daily. I could have gone on and on about the clear clear ocean, but that’s standard in East Africa. The white as snow sand really did it for me though! Worth the hype? Yes. My favourite beach destination in East Africa? Nope. A solid 9/10 as things were relatively cheap, there were a ton of activities and the people were SUPER friendly. You just don’t get that anymore.
A 3 part series on where you can most likely find me when I win the lottery and retire.
Part I: The Seychelles
How do you spell paradise in African? Yep, you guessed it S-E-Y-C-H-E-L-L-E-S.
The country to me as a South African has never really seemed to be situated in Africa. I never learnt about Seychelles history or way of life…Its technically not on the mainland (yes sorry Mauritius, same Whatsapp group)…In fact my only reference to the Seychelles growing up was all the gorgeous Miss World candidates that sashayed in as the announcer announced the next candidate from Africa…. “Miss Seychelles” – cue 8-year-old Bee jumping up and down just happy that this hot Nubian Queen was African. So there I was, I’d just quit my investment banking job after 4 rewarding,but also excruciating years and a friend says they’re heading to the Seychelles for work… I remember telling myself I already had a trip planned to Mozambique to reward myself for sticking it out for that long. Being so proud of myself for sticking it out and starting another job in 3 weeks meant that I allowed myself to do the unthinkable at the time… I literally bought my ticket to the Island 2 days before I left – because in 2016 if you aren’t yolo’ing what are you doing??? (yes, the Bee on my right shoulder just rolled her eyes at me and asked whether I was the same person who was shouting financial freedom in our time 5 days ago….) #YOLO
So with a work laptop in tow which in theory I was supposed to be using in the final weeks of my garden leave (which I opened twice that whole week)… I bought and boarded the cheapest Kenya Airways flight I could find…Yes, you definitely can fly there direct…but again, even though I was YOLO’ing, I was a price conscious YOLO’er (yes, I’m just making up all these words). Remember kids, just like safety, budget first (ALWAYS)!!!! I remember thinking I should stop by Nairobae for longer because I absolutely love that city…but honestly – I was so bloody excited to be in the Seychelles that it didn’t make sense to have a long layover. I remember going to land and just grinning from ear to ear like I owned land in the Seychelles! As you go in for the landing on Mahe Island, all you can see is the crisp blue and clear ocean with a littering of Islands.
The Seychelles are basically an archipelago of 115 islands off East Africa. It’s home to numerous beaches, coral reefs and nature reserves, as well as rare species such as the giant Aldabra tortoises…Make time to see these tortoise…it’s a rare treat! Mahé is your central point of travel to visiting some of the other islands, home to the capital Victoria and the only place to land when coming off an international flight. It also has the mountain rainforests of Morne Seychellois National Park and beaches, including Beau Vallon (My favourite) and Anse Takamaka. The Island is one of those places where you constantly ask yourself whether you really deserve to be there because it’s so darn perfect.
Anyways… I digress. The immigration process was pretty straight forward and luckily, I didn’t need a visa for the Seychelles…insert: thank you South African passport. They don’t have Uber because let’s face it, does a population of 95,000 really need Uber? For the most part the general pace is a little on the leisurely side so they really is no reason for you to be rushing about. I’d booked a cab with a local person my friend uses all the time and that seemed to be the most economical solution.
I spent 6
days frolicking, hiking, going to beaches, finding local eating spots and
finding new reading spots in the resort where we were staying at. I would
highly recommend Le Meridien despite the price tag…also, if you didn’t budget
accordingly …then the Seychelles aren’t for you. Short of finding local local
spots (where speaking some French is crucial to be chummy with all the locals
and find the best bargains) there really were few spots that I felt were priced
comparatively well to South Africa..and yes I know…our wine and food is cheaper
than most places in Africa..but the Seychelles was another level of expensive… …
and unlike some other cities that have an abundance of Airbnb’s where you have
the option of dining in when you feel the pinch in your pocket, the way the
hospitality industry is set up in the Seychelles…you are kidding yourself if
you think you won’t be staying at a hotel. So what were the questions that I’d
wished I’d asked to help me better prepare for this trip and the questions that
I did ask that ensured that I had a good time?
How much should you ideally budget? More than you need. JOKES (I’m not really joking), seriously, a bed and breakfast at a decent 4-5 star will set you back GBP300 (USD330 or R6,100) per night. Opt in for an all-inclusive because the alternative is quite tough on the pocket
When is the ideal time to go? The best times to visit Seychelles is April, May, October and November. These months represent the transition times between the hot and humid northwest trade winds (from November through March) and the cooler southeast trade winds that define April through October (Thank you google, I just showed up in April because of Carnival)
What languages are spoken in the Seychelles? The national languages of Seychelles are Seychellois Creole, English and French.
When is Carnival? Around the last week of April and it was a ton of fun! This was a huge selling point for me going…Yes, it is not the most known carnival in the world but the locals are a ton of fun and the food was so so tasty!
Is it worth it to pack hiking shoes? A definite yes from me. It’s generally a very hilly island and my personal favourite hiking spots / mountains were: Morne Blanc and Le Glacis Noir
What are the cheapest activities to do in the Seychelles? A beach day and hiking
Is it a romantic destination? DEFINITELY. There’s definitely plenty to do that’s not laying by the pool, soaking up the sun and having your share of mojitos…but it is most definitely a romantic location so remember that before you take your little sister…. it’s not worth it…
Is there Uber? Definitely not – there are a couple of local alternatives so best to know where you are going or get the hotel to pick you up
What currency is accepted in the Seychelles? Seychelles Rupees, USD and EUROs…
Late night restaurants? Like good old South Africa, there isn’t much in terms of this so best to plan ahead… Boardwalk Café on Eden is the spot for night-time eats and is reasonably priced
So all in all, a really strong 8.5 out of 10 for me. It falls short of a ten because of the affordability aspect and it not being the easiest of places to get around in (lack of public transport etc). But the people, mountains and sites are amazing and unfortunately the prevalence of South Africans makes it feel like a way nicer version of a beach side town in Cape Town as you can get some of the same wines etc. I couldn’t recommend the Seychelles enough. Have you been the Seychelles lately? Anything else to add to my list of Q&A? What was your favourite or least favourite thing about the Island? I would love to hear about them!!! Feel free to reply on the post or send me an email directly!
So here we are. You’ve seen your ex-bestie’s latest trip to Bali or Thailand and you tell yourself you need to get on it and also get those Instagram worthy photos. You have some savings, but is it enough to live your best life? Where do you even start? How much is enough money? You don’t want to be a pauper, but you also don’t want to break the bank. *breath*. I’m the last person to advocate for just a budget for travel because I generally believe you should have a budget for everything!!! Repeat after me: “A life lived within a budget is a happy life…. A life lived within a budget is a happy life…A….”
Ok, you’ve decided on Thailand or Turkey but what does that even mean? Can you go in a month? Can you go in 3 months? 6 months? The only sure-fire way of ensuring this actually does not end up with you paying for a holiday 6 months later with the Instagram posts a long-forgotten memory is by coming up with a budget. Travel expenses can vary greatly depending on how you like to travel. Are you a backpacker, a 5-star hotel girl or do you prefer flying in poor poor standard economy and living it up at the lushest hotel you can find? If you’re like me and like the finer things in life but want to pay the least amount possible for them then you came to the right place. Here are some of my go to tips when planning trips!
Make a budget for your flights and transportation. Depending on where you are going chances are what is most likely to cost you the most is flights. I religiously use https://www.skyscanner.net/ and Google Flights as they tend to give you the most economical options. Don’t forget about transits and everyday budgets, e.g. a small sum for Uber / trains as that ALL adds up over a ten-day holiday
Secondly, book your accommodation! I’m a HUGE Airbnb fan as they give you an array of options in terms of sizes of apartments and houses and various degrees of fanciness (Use this code for USD80 off your first booking, and yes, thank me later). Booking.com is also a good second option as they have everything from hotel rooms to apartments on their site.
Make a budget for food. Food is usually the hardest area for me to estimate what I will spend. But think about where you’re going. Chances are food is cheaper in South Africa than London. But eating out will probably cost you the same in London and Paris. Whilst Asia and Latam will probably be the cheapest… It is hard to get exact numbers for food, so use your best judgement. For travel in Europe, a good estimate per day per person is USD13 for lunch, USD20 for dinner, and a few more dollars for extras like a bottle of water or soda during the day. This does not include alcohol. Also, keep in mind that you can eat for a lot less than that if you don’t eat at expensive touristy places. Touristy places are a trap!!! Stay away if you can. If you want to tighten up on your food budget, look for hotels or guesthouses that include breakfast. Or even half board or full board options. Also consider apartment rentals where you will have access to a kitchen (oh hello there Airbnb). Even if you buy groceries and cook just a few times and always eat breakfast in the apartment, you will save money on your trip budget.
Budget for Activities. Most booking sites (Booking.com and Expedia.com) usually give you some sort of discount for activities if you book your flights or accommodation with them. Here you can find cheaper entrance fees for museums, parks, ruins, or other attractions. Do you plan on doing something more expensive like scuba diving or a hot air balloon ride? Add up these travel costs too, and make sure you know what is and is not included.Do you like to shop when you travel? I do…so you knowwww that needs to be on the budget.
Want to know how to save money when you travel? Seek out less expensive lodgings, less expensive dining options, walk instead of using public transportation, don’t do too much shopping, and don’t spend much on extras like alcohol and snacks. But don’t make yourself miserable to save a few bucks (Also I alwayssssss stop at the duty free of any country I’m entering to buy alcohol in bulk especially if it’s a large group trip as alcohol just tends to be cheaper at duty free and in bulk).
It is also always a good idea to track your spending while you travel, this will help you know how accurately your original budget was and help you not overspend too much. Maybe you underestimated how much you’d spend on food, or you thought you’d spend a lot more on activities. That way you’ll have a better idea of what your spending habits are when you travel. Then you can take this information and use it to budget your trip better next time around. I use Splitwise when I’m traveling in groups and it is amazing! It tracks how much each person has paid for each thing e.g If I pay for groceries, a friend may pay for activities and another friend may pick up the bill for drinks etc. The app then simply does the calculations and works out who owes who so the person who paid for you may not be the person you owe in the end. I recommend it if you’re looking for an easy way to track your travel expenses.
For pre trip travel budgeting I either use my MONZO account (Link here, if you want 10 dollars to start courtesy of me) it has the option of having a savings pot so whenever I have some extra cash I put it in the pot, but you can also make it an automatic monthly transfer). I also use my fixed deposit account from FNB and save per month. I set up an automatic transfer, so I don’t have to think about it each month.
Coming up with a realistic travel budget is an important part of planning your vacation. It lets you know if this is a trip you can afford. Hopefully you will realize that your dream trip is within your reach. But if not, you will know how much you need to save. Nothing is ever quite unattainable, but everything worth having is worth taking your time, planning and budgeting accordingly! Happy planning and happy traveling.
As always, if you want to keep up with my latest travels (and not work life), follow my IG account @beeinrsa as all the cool kids are doing it and well you know you want to be a cool kid
What does a week where you feel like you’re experiencing a baptism of fire, being left in the lurch by your line manager in a country you’ve never been to and realizing sometimes you should just go with the flow have in common? Oh yes… my first trip to Accra… Forget that this commute was one of the funniest I’ve ever had as I genuinely had my signature #RBF the whole way there (caused by the fact that last minute I was told I was heading to Ghana alone…alone… They do say what doesn’t kill you makes you Tsonga right? Way more politically incorrect jokes I shouldn’t be making). But also I guess I’d rather suffer in Business Class then suffer in economy.
I somehow end up sitting next to the chattiest Minister I’ve ever sat next to on a plane…actually to be fair, the only Minister I’ve ever sat next to on a plane..who proceeds to invite me to a lunch with the Chinese ambassador to Ghana…because…well…I speak Chinese…Yes, this does really happen to me!!! And yes, I went to that lunch because you never look a gift horse in the mouth. So after my 6.5 hour journey and my compatriot trying to convince me that I should stay at Labadi Beach instead of Movenpick (both extremely great hotels, but one clearly more for leisure and one more for people who actually came to work. Insert me), the game was a foot. I checked out the usual suspects, trip advisor etc and there were some good recommendations but some of them were also quite a miss for me as an African (Jamestown specifically). 5 things you have to do which I managed to fit in after 6pm every day that week?
Cultural Sites: Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park
This site honours Ghana’s first president, who helped lead the country to independence in 1957 *weeps in apartheid South African at the 1957*. The park contains Nkrumah’s mausoleum and a museum charting his life and its located on the spot where he declared independence. Its about five acres of landscaped gardens with flowerbeds and water features.. Its center point is the architecturally impressive mausoleum where Nkrumah and his wife are buried. A museum tells the story of the former president’s campaign for freedom and includes an interesting array of personal effects and photographs.
2. Makola Market
Makola Market features stalls selling everything from fabrics to beads and souvenirs. If you’ve ever wanted to practice haggling then this is the place for you..and luckily for me I’ve perfected the art over years of haggling away at markets in Beijing. But honestly don’t haggle too hard… I think sometimes we haggle for haggling’s sake without realising the value of something and forgetting that that extra dollar or so means very little to you but means so much to a single mother trying to put food on the table. But it’s fairly fair (is that a thing? fairly fair?!) because there are locals and foreigners so you wont stick out too much…and if all else fails just pretend you are Ghanaian
Labadi is Accra’s most popular beach. There are a ton of Waterfront restaurants all vying for your patronage and serving everything from beer to jollof to fried fish. You can get in a whole afternoon of people watching by having a meal and then washing it down with some cold beer. There are a ton of artists performing etc. If we are birds of a feather and you do enjoy a good cocktail and some A-grade food, take a walk to Labadi Beach Hotel which has the freshesssst fish…and the price doesn’t let you forget that. The hotel is also really good for meetings so don’t knock it
4. Fantasy Coffin workshops
mmm…I have mixed feelings about this… I had to go because I’d spent atleast a week in university learning about this in African studies.. But these coffins are hugely popular and you can see below some examples (I started taking photos and had to stop myself from being a tourist and also you wouldn’t take photos at a mortuary..) So google photos will have to do for you… they’re super creative and honestly really cool if you get over how over the top they are…so someone who may have spent their lives as a fisherman would choose to be buried in. a…fish..coffin..It’s a beautiful cultural experience
5. Food glorious food, Coco lounge specifically for me…
The great thing about this is despite the never ending jollof battle between my Naija and Ghanaian friends..I actually had no idea what Ghanaian food was…I struggled to find the right place to eat after work that wasn’t the hotel because most places actually closed pretty early and delivery is only now more popular…insert: Coco Lounge, a brasserie-style experience bar located in Airport City, Accra. Everything we tried was amazing…I couldn’t stop thinking about the coconut chicken rice for a week after I returned to Joburg. What a vibe as well!!! I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere and can’t recommend it enough. It felt like you were transported to some futuristic African cosmopolitan city #WakandaForever where everyone had a personal stylist and good food and music is all you had to worry about.
Miss me with Jamestown…(people actually do tours of super poor neighborhoods (why do foreigners revel in seeing dire poverty?)I’m African and unfortunately I don’t have to travel overseas to see such. I also didn’t try the clubbing scene because well#SoloTravels as a woman don’t lend themselves to drinking alone in foreign countries even if they are safe.
A somewhat local’s guide to her favourite bougie restaurants…no, not bougie…just your typical…’My stomach loves you..but my bank account would be hella confused if I ate here everyday eating establishment (Repeat after me: “You have food at home, You have food at home…”)’
oh that’s where my salary went!!! Now having spent quite a bit of time eating my life away…I literally work out to eat… That is my M.O. I want to say I consider myself quite an expert in this field… Because really what else should my salary be going to except for gluttony and making me so large that I need new clothes… And again I would like to say this my own personal opinion.. And my views on how expensive these are really are based on my own pocket…and my own sense of laziness..because who really drives an hour for steak in Johannesburg when there are so many options? Or tacos…I don’t discriminate, I’m an equal opportunist. And don’t worry I don’t have visions of grandeur and think I’m trip advisor or Eat Out SA. I just think I’m a complete fatty and clearly if eating is your talent… Gotta work with what you got. Below are some of my favourite restaurants…all for the food, some for the ambience and a few for the value of money…and some for all three!
Think Steakhouse with an open flame griller and some bomb-ass wall art and interiors . They have this really cool Argentinian steakhouse feel mixed with fine-dining, mixed with some cool South African flavours. The grilled pork belly is honestly my favourite (and that’s my standard for how good a restaurant is – Give me porkbelly any day). It has the right amount of crackling and is served with some teriyaki sweet potato, pork crumble, and apple salad with a lime, honey and ginger dressing. Basically on another level. The desserts are pretty much on another level too
It seems right that this would follow on Marble… the latest project from chef David Higgs and his team. Ambience very similar to Marble (Lighting etc). Saint though is more on the Italian side and has quite a few classic Italian dishes think everything from arancini to pasta, though the pork loin is more up my alley. The pizzas are amazing and not at all overpriced..insert the eye emoji we’re all thinking of …. The sea bass is also super amazing.
Flames (Four Seasons Hotel – Westcliff)
So the food here is amazing…. Almost as good as the view…When Johannesburg living gets a bit much and you want to feel like you live in the biggest urban man-made forest in the world.. Flames is your answer. Feels a little less pretentious than the two above but definitely quality food that’s consistent. And if you’re into being driven around in golf-carts – well this is for you. The luscious fine-dining menu starts with smoked quail and sweet Spanish onions, poached quail’s eggs and pickled exotic mushrooms or a gorgeous lobster Caesar salad or ample fresh oysters. Main meals include a variety of local fish and seafood offerings, as well as carefully selected meat cuts, such as the succulent crispy pork belly served with a curried lentil ragù and cauliflower crème brûlée (What did I say about Porkbelly?). If you’re more of a carnivore…Beef prime rib for two comes in two servings: roasted on the bone and served with potatoes, peas and carrots. I’m not much of a dessert person, but I hear they’re pretty good.
Winehouse at ten Bompass
So I love this restaurant for its romantic ambience and value for money. It’s the kind of place that always makes you feel like a regular even if you’ve never been. They have this amazing special where you can get two courses for ZAR275 and 3 courses for ZAR345 . Most of the herbs and vegetables come from the hotel gardens and the main dishes change at the beginning of each season. I can’t say enough good things about the whole menu and the fact that its forever changing!
This place is bananas. B-A-N-A-N-A-S…so just up the road from Winehouse (literally a 5 mins walk away is DW 11 13). So the outside ambience is frankly crap – the restaurant looks out into a parking lot…so they tend to close it out… The in-house chef if a bit of a Johannesburg institution which kind of makes sense as the food is absolutely out of this world. They have an eight-course degustation menu that changes seasonally to highlight what’s fresh and new. You obviously cant be having that every day…or week… or month really… but worth every single dime when you get a chance…I tend to pair it with wine if I’m really celebrating. From the seared scallop with mushroom purée to the popular roast duck breast with potato fondant… everything is amazing!
So if you can get over the way too loud owner… sorry, Alex…I joke, I kid, I do, I do. I’ve been a loyal go-er to this restaurant since inception for so many reasons, amazing food which you can also have family style if you want to, amazing desserts (Yes, I classify dessert and food differently because there is a different stomach for dessert), amazing ambience and honestly there aren’t enough black owned restaurants in Johannesburg! My personal favourites: the Gamberetti (prawn tails in a smoked tomato-and-basil salsa accompanied by an avocado mousse and lemon aïoli), the pasta Allesandro and the almond & pear cake which has now gone off the menu…actually can someone pressure this restaurant to bring back this cake? Most things hit the right spot..I’ve only gone wrong when I’ve opted for healthier options – fish etc, still cooked very well..but whats the point of going to an Italian place if you’re going to choose the healthy option? It’s cool that they now have a bar outside, but I honestly don’t care much for it..a bit loud for me and makes it feel a little less intimate. But overall a more than satisfactory dining experience with a super upbeat vibe.
This is more of an ode to the Old cube which opened now and then, took you 3 months to reserve a table and made you eat at home the rest of the month..I heard the restaurant has been reimagined as the Cube Tasting Kitchen at the Cosmopolitan. After waiting 3 months back in 2016 with a bunch of friends who were part of the dinner club, we finally made it in. Week of the dinner they email you an idea of the menu. They allowed you to bring your own wine to pair to each of the ten coursesssss; yes, I said ten. Lo and behold the dinner club showed up with wines and sherry to match each and every course and basically a stash that rivals Tyrion’s personal stash. Orgasmic honestly doesn’t describe the food at all..the word pales in comparison. Every single plate had so many nuances. It was perfection on a plate… I quote a Eat Out Review because my experience actually fails me: “You might receive a pink, golden and cream dream with Thai tom yum flavours; a stunningly beautiful palate refresher of different tropical textures topped with a tiny fennel flower; elements of a Durban chicken curry; or Mexican-inspired beef with whopping taste surprises in accompanying bursts”. I haven’t checked out the new space but this was hands down one of my favourite food experiences. EVER.
Less fine dining, better nibles with great cocktails. A favourite of mine with a larger crowd – especially so you can share all the amazing tapas! Are you in authentic Mexico? Nope, is it the closest to good Mexican food you can get in Johannesburg? Yep.
So many amazing soft shell tacos (if you prefer hard shells, they have that too – But I don’t understand people who like hardshells..were you not hugged enough as a child?) … slow-cooked pork belly; battered hake…amazing ceviche… burritos…chargrilled corn…and would it be a Mexican place if it didn’t have oh so many amazing jalapeño poppers and churros… Great for larger crowds and Friday team lunches when you have no intention of going back to the office…yes…I have convinced my old team to come here…TWICE…and somehow they fell for it…TWICE. The frozen margaritas also deserve special mention!
Momo Soko (Illovo)
A nice change from the hum and drum of fine dining… Momo Soko is A-amazing! If you know me, you know I’m a sucker for Asian flavours. This place offers Asian tapas and bowls, bao buns and skewers. The menu isn’t that extensive but everything is flavour packed. Think soy, tempura and sweet and sticky. A 180 from African travel ey? They also have way healthier options in the form of the soko bowls…way cleaner and fresher…What to order? Everything ….come back..the portions and prices are reasonable enough that you can try a few things every time you go.
Red Chamber (Hyde Park)
So I have to confess that I wasn’t a believer in the concept of this place before I went… To me most Chinese food is humble and packed full of flavour (On a completely somewhat unrelated sidenote when I first moved to china one of the funniest experiences I ever had was explaining that I was vegetarian… every single time I said it…they just assumed I didn’t eat pork…but I actually was vegetarian…the concept was so far removed to so many restaurants that I actually started eating meat again while on study abroad; and no it wasn’t my mandarin accent that was the issue…) so all those meaty flavours and humble ingredients seemed a mismatch to the mall of Hyde Park littered with its fancy stores… not exactly bee traveling on a budget… or my idea of good humble Chinese food (also please don’t get me wrong – Chinese food CAN do fine dining; its just what I enjoy more than anything else). Not to miss at Red Chamber – Dumplings (always), Peking Duck which is Beijing’s premier dish (comes with thin pancakes, cucumber, carrots and sticky plum sauce) which is great shared with a number of people. There are a bunch of other amazing dishes that are such a kicker. Again – I’m not much for dessert, but you should try something new!
Honourable mentions : Signature (Sandton), Cafe del Sol
Classico,The Butcher Shop and Grill (an institution) Qunu @ the Saxon, Sumting fresh (yes, I know a
little less fine dining) but still..
There are clearly so many more restaurants that are super amazing in Johannesburg which are my go-tos for consistency and something quick (Tasha’s etc) , but the above are my all-star team when it comes to Johannesburg dining… I don’t actually have a good standard “African” food restaurant..any suggestions? If someone says Moyos…I may hurl..not a lot… just a little..
So posed the white South African to me at a recent interview (Don’t worry – I said no to the job) … And to be honest he was a nice enough guy and I know he was just joking…. but was it a very white South African thing to ask. More so than a lot of other things…And I am also that aunt who probably would ask one of my nieces and nephews the same question if they majored in it in University… But African Studies was my minor in University; because girl I’m African and you know Economics or something deemed almost as useful had to be my major. On top of having some of the most amazing Africa focused professors (shout out to Nadia Horning, Tropp and a few others) I actually really needed to do African Studies as a subject because my knowledge about our general history and current events was pretty dismal
And as I laboured around my answer – “… as a south African growing up did you ever feel African?” – his reply was ofcourse – he was taught he was European and not African. I on the other hand was taught that I was South African …no mention of Africa whatsoever… There were ofcourse many forces at play here in early post-apartheid South Africa. It was as if to combat the swart gevaar South Africa somehow wanted to erase the decades of apartheid our parents and grandparents lived and operated under..the same apartheid we were born under. South Africa went on a “rainbow nation” marketing campaign against its own citizens… we were the rainbow nation, the country that banded around the springboks winning the world cup and (less so, mind you) Bafana Bafana winning the African Cup of Nations. I was part of the generation that could tell you extensively about the rise of apartheid and how South Africa rose above that and even about World War I & II, but never about the African Kings and Queen that ruled this continent for centuries… I don’t think I could even tell you about any of Africa’s contributions to civilisation… I could start on modern writing and end up on how most of the world’s super powers came to be and are propped up by riches stolen from this land..but I digress..
But I guess the most important thing here is that at a tender age before probably most of my peers I felt African. I moved to Canada to the middle of nowhere for United World College and all of a sudden I was struck by how every African I came across could tell me in detail about South Africa’s apartheid history… I could tell them…nothing…really nothing…because I knew nothing about their countries.. I could probably talk to the languages spoken, some of the demographics and any other Grade 4 geography titbits I could muster. But the people I was suddenly clustered in the same grouping as – the so called “Afro- Carribeans” were people I’d never spent two minutes thinking I was a part of.. And now the same people who’s souls somewhat vibrated closest to mine…who got most of my jokes (Sorry Brits, I love you too)..were people I constantly had to learn about and I wanted to learn about because they got me..really got me..From the random dance parties I would walk into in the all campus lounge to the jollof and other cooking sessions I would constantly invite myself to. So when I left my amazing high school and went to university..I knew I had to further educate myself…because even if it was a class per semester…or a class a year..I knew it was more than was afforded a lot of South Africans who went through South African institutions.. Which then bring us to the actual topic at hand… why would I defile my oh so gorgeous baby soft skin with below tattoo….
If I’d actually discussed this with my mother, it would have never happened. So here I am 4 years back on the continent – covering the continent; visiting all these amazing places for work. Places that were new, but not so new because they got me and I got them on some fundamental spiritual level. I’d spent New Years in Kenya and gone through a rather ridiculous breakup …At this moment I actually felt so tied to how the progress of all the countries I was working.. at this point I was no longer South African and then African. I felt African first and then South African… As if my success in all I did was indestructibly tied to the progress of all 54 countries (Yes, at that not so tender age you can feel this way)… Insert every single time I’d jibed one of my friends and family for getting a tattoo with the words that I just didn’t have anything that was that important to me that I could ever ascribe permanent space to my body for … So at this point in time …having had an amazing new years in my adopted country I recommitted to what I thought was important to me… had been for quite a while…Africa.
Cue “our destiny is down in Africa” … and me LAWLING. But seriously, I found that the one thing I knew I could commit to long term was my love for this continent and generally wanting to uplift and help grow as many corners as I possibly could through sustainable business and being part of the solution for the funding issue across the continent. It was also a reminder of that despite things being difficult (and every other person asking why I wouldn’t just stay in the US) I CONSTANTLY reminded myself that I had to be part of the solution because at the end of the day that’s what mattered.
The tattoo itself is the African continent (and no I didn’t forget Madagascar like a lot of you!) – But I stopped when the guy wanted to ensure the Seychelles were there – no sir we will not be putting random spots on my back to the point where people think I have a moles. Interposed on it is my fingerprint because well – regardless of where I am in the world ..my identity still lies so firmly within this continent . So yes…people do African Studies and get tattoos of Africa because they simply care and love this continent so so much! That said, I’m always curios about why people choose to get tattoos and what they mean to them…so drop me a line…about your experience and why you chose to get a tattoo…what meant so much to you that you chose to go through the excruciating pain of having needles dance across your skin?